Mandalay Once Shone as the 'City of Gold'—Now It Reeks of Death
Once famous for its glimmering pagodas and spiritual calm, Mandalay has turned into a city of despair after a devastating earthquake left thousands dead and missing.
Mandalay, once Myanmar’s royal capital and known as the “city of gold” for its shimmering pagodas and golden spires, has become a place of grief and devastation. A powerful 7.7-magnitude earthquake that struck near the city last Friday has left over 2,700 dead, 4,521 injured, and hundreds more still missing, according to the country’s military leadership. With rescue efforts still underway, those numbers are expected to rise significantly.
The disaster has overwhelmed the city. One resident described corpses being “cremated in stacks” due to the sheer volume of the dead. Crematoriums are full, and authorities are running out of supplies, including body bags, food, and clean water.
J, a 23-year-old student from Mahaaungmyay district, recounted how her aunt’s body was only recovered two days after the quake. “I have seen many people, myself included, crouching over and crying on the streets,” she said. With homes destroyed or unsafe, many residents are sleeping in makeshift shelters or directly on the streets, fearful of continued aftershocks.
In just four days, Mandalay's fire service rescued 403 people and recovered 259 bodies. But many believe the actual toll is far higher. In a televised address, military chief Min Aung Hlaing warned the death count could exceed 3,000. The US Geological Survey suggested that fatalities could even surpass 10,000 based on the quake’s magnitude and location.
Children, in particular, have been deeply affected. A local pastor named Ruate shared how his eight-year-old son has had frequent emotional breakdowns after witnessing the destruction. Their home in Pyigyitagon was hit hard. “Yesterday we saw bodies being brought out of collapsed buildings,” Ruate said. “Everyone’s tired. We’re feeling hopeless and helpless.”
At Sky Villa, once a 12-storey building now reduced to six, a monk described ongoing efforts to recover the dead. “Only bodies have been pulled out in the last 24 hours,” he said. “There are many more still inside.”
The earthquake struck a country already in crisis. Since a military coup in 2021, Myanmar has suffered from a civil war, economic collapse, and widespread displacement. Over 3.5 million people were already internally displaced before the quake hit. Thousands more, especially the youth, have fled the country to escape forced military conscription—leaving fewer people to support rescue and rebuilding efforts.
International aid has been slow to arrive. Although Russia and China have sent assistance, Myanmar’s fractured infrastructure and ongoing civil conflict have severely limited relief operations. Local groups have reported difficulty accessing the quake-hit zones due to military-imposed restrictions, including requirements to submit lists of volunteers and relief items.
Humanitarian organizations like Human Rights Watch and Amnesty International are urging the junta to allow immediate and unrestricted access to affected areas. “The junta needs to break from its appalling past practice and ensure that humanitarian aid quickly reaches those whose lives are at risk,” said Bryony Lau, deputy Asia director at Human Rights Watch.
While Myanmar held a minute of silence and launched a week of mourning for the victims, violence in some regions has continued. The military reportedly carried out attacks in parts of Sagaing, the quake’s epicenter, which is controlled by anti-junta resistance groups.
A commander from the People’s Defence Forces (PDF), who commands 300 fighters, claimed they are observing a ceasefire declared by the opposition’s National Unity Government. Similarly, the Three Brotherhood Alliance—comprising three major ethnic armed groups—announced a month-long ceasefire to support relief efforts.
Despite this, BBC Burmese reported continued drone strikes and air attacks in Kachin and Shan states.
In the once-glorious Mandalay, now marred by grief and ruin, despair hangs in the air alongside the smell of death. Survivors, volunteers, and families alike are clinging to hope as the nation grapples with one of its deadliest disasters in decades.
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